It’s been a while since I’ve posted about site, and since I’ve
pretty much been doing nothing but chill here at Boys since April, I figure
it’s about time I threw an update out there to keep the folks back home
informed on all-things-Paul. I mean,
hey, I owe it to my fans, don’t I?
Again, because none of these events are really related to
each other, I’m opting for another vignette-style post. It’s a crutch, I know, but it works. Plus, with the way most internet writing is
turning out these days---brief and skim-friendly to suit today’s busy
procrastinator---it’d probably be best to keep things short and
noteworthy. It’s not like I’m shooting
for a Pulitzer or anything.
---
Perhaps the biggest piece of news since the last update is
that I’m extending my service here at Songea Boys until the end of the school
term in March 2013. Well, I guess this
isn’t new news---extension was always
part of the plan---but now I guess it’s more official than before since I’ve
(finally) turned in the forms to PC HQ.
There were a number of influencing factors that led me to
make this decision, not least among them being the fact that, under the normal
schedule, I’d be leaving my school as early as November 2012, abandoning my
kids to the fates right before their terminal NECTA examinations. While it’d be nice to go home and eat
hamburgers a little earlier, I’m confident that I wouldn’t be able to do so
without being racked with guilt: again, my current Form VI students are the
Form Vs I managed to snatch up near the beginning of my service, and I’d really
like to see them through the entirety of their secondary school career. Of course, the unstated agenda of all this is
that, one day, when my students are all successful physicists and biologists working
in state-of-the-art Tanzanian research labs in the now-famous Ruvuma Technology
Corridor, they can look back and say, “I owe it all to that crazy mzungu back in A-level who kept invoking
the Second Law of Thermodynamics to describe my own mortality.” An unrealistic fantasy, yes, but I just
really want my kids to know that they had a teacher for two years who genuinely
gave a crap about their education, and I feel I can much better accomplish that
by finishing out the school term.
Whimsical perspectives of service aside, there were
practical considerations as well. For
whatever reason, it seems that PC TZ has been losing interest in the Ruvuma
region over the past few years, as neither my sitemate nor I are being
replaced, and new education or health/environment volunteers have been few and
far between over the course of my service.
Thus, if my school is to find a replacement teacher for me, I need to
give them an early heads-up so they can start looking… there’s not really that
large a pool of eligible teachers to draw from around here. In fact, I’m pretty sure my sitemate and I
alone represent a significant percentage of the A-level physics teaching staff
in the Ruvuma region as a whole (according to last year’s NECTA stats, there
are only three schools that teach A-level physics in the entire region, and we
represent two of them). By leaving a
little later and informing my headmaster that I’m not getting replaced, I save
Songea Boys from a frantic mid-semester scramble to find a new physics teacher,
which would mostly likely result in the hasty appointment of some
fresh-out-of-Form-VI neophyte who probably got a 20% on his physics NECTA. My school doesn’t want that, I don’t want
that, and I think we’d all be better off I stayed a little while longer.
Lastly, there are selfish reasons for extending. Going home in November would make me too late
for school, too early for applications, and under too tight a period to find
any meaningful employment. By finishing
service in March, I’m at least a little closer to the summer school/summer
employment market, which will hopefully open up a few more opportunities for me
in terms of the ol’ career path. So
yeah, between the choice of working a little bit longer in Tanzania or spending
six months as an unemployed 25-year-old living with his parents, I’ve made the
easy decision. Plus, if I extend, I get
to do a little free-form traveling after service, and that’s always a good
thing.
---
In other Songea Boys news, I’ve been (somewhat) relieved of
my duties as chief A-level biology instructor this term, as we managed to recruit
a new teacher from nearby Chipole Secondary---a nun who apparently did some
studying in America once upon a time.
Overall, she’s really nice: her English is great, and she’s definitely
more dedicated to her students than the average Songea Boys teacher. She’s also had me over to her place a few
times, and we’ve had some nice conversations about America over chai and boiled
magimbi (yams). Perhaps most importantly, though, she’s been
helpful in alleviating my workload: teaching Form V and VI physics as well as
Form VI biology, not to mention occasionally teaching Form V biology when I had
time, was beginning to crush my spirit, and it was getting to the point where I
actually was getting seriously depressed in anticipation of our
regularly-scheduled exam weeks---grading 450+ exams every couple of months is
no picnic.
Despite her help, though, there are some aspects of her
teaching style that I find a bit troubling… although, admittedly, they provide some
insight into the system I’m working with here.
For one, despite her having been an O-level biology teacher for a few
years at Chipole Secondary (and having “majored” in biology back in her
seminary in Kansas City, where she graduated, or something), she’s really not qualified to teach high school biology, at least by American standards: she
doesn’t know what atoms are, she has serious issues understanding how modern
genetics works, and she’s a devout creationist (like, “Adam-and-Eve-in-the-Garden-of-Eden-5000-years-ago”
devout… she’s a nun, after all). I mean,
I didn’t even think you could pass
biology without knowing what atoms were, much less make a career of teaching it at the magnet A-level
secondary school in a major province in a nation of 40 million people. What’s fortunate is that she recognizes her
lack of expertise in the subject, and she’s asked me to give her private
tutoring sessions to help her review the material… it’s a shame, though, that
after a number of such sessions over the past few months, it’s become
apparent that she really just needs to go back to school (well, that, or pick
a different line of work). I’ll give her
some credit: she does seem to really
want to learn the material and she is
working hard (well, hard for Songean) to gain a general level of
competency. I just don’t know if it’ll
be enough to ensure a high level of biology tuition at Boys for years to come.
Another problem is that, again, while she’s nice and fairly
dedicated, she’s just so… Tanzanian. I’m
sorry, I love Tanzania and the Tanzanian people, but there really is a lack of
independent thought in Tanzanian culture: Tanzanians are the type of people who
will spend 12 hours a day every day lugging sacks of maize up a hill on their
backs but won’t spend 6 hours one day designing/building a wheelbarrow and 6
hours every other day doing the same chore for less energy. The same principle---that is, lack of
critical thinking and disregard for individual ingenuity---applies to the
education system here, and despite the time our new biology teacher has
ostensibly spent getting an education in America, she remains an unmistakable
product of a Tanzanian public school education.
As a result, she---like most Tanzanian teachers I know---sticks unquestioningly
to the MoE-approved syllabus (despite the syllabus’ flagrant omissions and her
lack of understanding of the material in general) and champions the classic
“learning-through-blindly-copying” approach to higher education. Yes, she “studies” biology for three hours a
day, but I’ve seen her notes, and all she does is literally transcribe her
biology textbook onto a piece of paper, which she then proceeds to transcribe verbatim
on the blackboard during class the next day.
Thus, while I’m constantly badgering my kids with annoying,
theme-oriented questions during my biology classes (“So, we’ve talked a bit
about the differences between arthropods and vertebrates. But why do you think arthropods tend to be
smaller than vertebrates? Why aren’t we getting eaten alive by giant
spiders as we speak?!”), she spends most of her classes writing down the eleven (and yes, according to NECTA, there are exactly eleven) advantages and
disadvantages of flowering plants and making the kids repeat them back to her ad nauseam.
Perhaps the clincher with all this is that, as far as my
school is concerned, she outranks me.
Oh, sure, I’ve been at Songea Boys longer and I’ve been working with the
A-level syllabus one year longer than she has, but she’s got one more year of overall
teaching experience than I do (she’s class of 2008), and she’s a biology teacher, whereas I’m a physics teacher who’s merely dabbling in
biology to help the school out. It
doesn’t help that most of the administration doesn’t really know much about biology,
so, as far as they’re concerned, she knows more about biology than I do---never
mind that, again, she really doesn’t know what atoms are (seriously, she really
doesn’t… I had to tell her what oxygen
was and why it is essential for life). Therefore, whenever an issue comes up between
the two of us, we are frequently and dismissively told to “work as a team,”
which doesn’t really solve the problem and results in further clashes of
interest down the line. This is especially
the case when my supposed “teammate” is constantly trying to get me to do her
grading for her or teach her classes because she’s not “comfortable with the
material.” Or when she decides to
spontaneously take a sick week and call me at 5am Monday morning to tell me
that---surprise---I now have to teach double my periods because she has
“malaria.” Again. For the third time this term. Even though it’s cold season.
I’m actually still a bit divided on that issue: do I bite
the bullet and teach her classes for the benefit of the students, or do I
abandon the students so that she might get in trouble and I teach her a lesson
about professionalism and responsibility?
It’s a tough choice.
In the end, though, I’m not going to hate on her too
much. She's a nice person, and
she really is more dedicated than most teachers at my school, which is always a
good thing. Moreover, I need to
emphasize that I am NOT a model teacher myself: there have been plenty of times
I’ve stumbled into a class entirely unprepared and ended up winging it for 80
minutes (I’ve actually gotten remarkably good at that). I guess this is just part of what happens
when you work within a cruddy system: when there’s a dearth of teachers in the
country overall, you have to make do with what you’ve got.
---
Of all the comparisons to other American institutions, I’d
have to say that PC TZ is a lot like high school. We’ve got our principal (the CD), our deans
(the APCDs), and we have four “classes” of PCVs in country at any given
time---two classes a year, two years of service. Moreover, given that we’re mostly a bunch of
bewildered, post-baccalaureate twenty-somethings desperately trying to stave
off real life by moving to another country for two years, I’d say our general
maturity level ranges somewhere between 9th grade and freshmen
orientation week in college. So there’s
that as well.
Going with this analogy, my class would currently be the
“rising seniors” of PC TZ, as the health/environment class before us has just
started leaving to return home to America (or extend their contracts as
super-seniors). Therefore, after they’re
gone, my class and I will enjoy three glorious months of being the kings and
queens of Peace Corps High before we too move on with our lives and bequeath
our coolness to the next class below us.
In the end, it’s all part of the wonderful, never-ending cycle that is
Peace Corps.
So, given that the 2012 cycle of PC TZ has started and the
newbies have arrived, I was summoned to go do a hands-on science training with
our current prefrosh earlier this month.
On the whole, I’d say it was pretty fun: the new group seems like a
pretty solid bunch, and although we’re not getting any of them down here in
Ruvuma (total bummer… thanks a lot, Peace Corps admins), I’m sure they’ll all
have happy, productive services at their respective sites in the near
future. Here’s hoping our session was
helpful (and maybe even inspirational?) enough to get them started.
What I liked best about the week up in Moro was that it was
pretty much a non-stop geek-out. There
were three of us PCVs from my class and one PCV from the new (2011) class, and
with the four of us representing the three major disciplines of science
(biology, chemistry, and physics), we were tasked with introducing the new
(2012) class to the so-called “Shika kwa
Mikono Initiative”, a PC- and MoE-sponsored project designed to encourage
low-income schools to use locally available materials to ghetto their way
through the NECTA syllabus. As bootleg
as it may sound, it’s true: with patience, perseverance, and a little low-tech
ingenuity, it’s amazing what you can engineer out of a bunch of seemingly
random garbage, and you can pretty much set up a fully-functional biology,
chemistry, or physics lab for ~1/10 the cost of buying everything directly from
the science supply stores.
Thus, upon our arrival in Morogoro in early July, we were
essentially given a wad of cash and instructed to go downtown and buy whatever local
materials we needed to recreate common NECTA practicals. What’s funny is that, if you’ve spent any
time with science nerds, you’d know that this is roughly equivalent to handing
a bunch of kindergarteners $500 and setting them loose at a Toys-R-Us. So yeah, we went a little wild over the next
two days.
Granted, as a physics guy, my shopping list was pretty lame
(rock + string = pendulum!), but I got a lot of joy out of some of the more
random crap we bought: I managed to get a hold of a computer-murdering 25-W
speaker magnet and some VCR guts for physics, we scored some 15-molar NaOH
solution for chemistry and biology (which we promptly mixed with some 5-molar
battery acid to “test it out”… bad idea), we literally cleaned out a
traditional medicine store for their cheap CuSO4 and sulfur,
and I bought my first packet of urinal cakes ever (for the NECTA physics
practical where you freebase them over a charcoal stove… no joke). I gotta say, it was probably one of the
cooler shopping sprees I’ve done in recent memory.
And, of course, no geek week would be complete without
explosions, and we did our best to hold true to this mantra during PST. Because we were spending our 4th
of July in Moro and exploding hydrogen gas is for little girls, we opted for
something a little bigger this year---making homemade gunpowder and setting it on
fire. As it turns out, gunpowder is
actually incredibly easy to make: all you need is fertilizer (specifically, KNO3),
sulfur, and charcoal dust, all of which are in plentiful supply in TZ. There are a few minor steps involving
grinding, boiling, and drying the powder, but it’s nothing that can’t be
accomplished in an evening with a few basic tools… we managed to get by with a
standard wooden mortar and pestle (kinu
and mtwangio), some gauze, a charcoal
stove, a thin, aluminum sufuria
(cooking pot), and a little elbow grease.
It’s funny: every time we do a hands-on science training
session in Moro, it looks like we’re operating out of a meth lab… this time, I think we finally graduated to “domestic terrorist hideout”: imagine a
dimly-lit concrete room containing a few scruffy PCVs in dirty clothes, all of
whom are hunched over their respective preparation stations, vigorously
grinding, stirring, or drying some suspicious-looking black paste onto
pre-prepared racks (read: flipchart paper).
Yeah, I’d be thinking the same thing.
Also, let me just add that it’s a bit unnerving squatting
over a red-hot charcoal stove, whisking a rapidly-drying pot full of
highly-combustible gunpowder. Don’t try this at home, kids.
Oh, and one last description of the maturity level of our little operation: over the course of the evening, we discovered that you could
throw KNO3 directly into the fire, whereupon it would immediately
burst into a shower of sparks and make a loud “woosh” sound. This started a combustion-frenzy, where we
proceeded to throw handfuls of the fertilizer directly into the charcoal stove
while periodically shouting “WIZARD!”. I
think we went through half the bag… yeah, we’re grown-ups. If anything, the numerous scorch marks we left
around the house are testament to that fact.
But yeah, the gunpowder worked, and we had a pretty cool opening to our session where we set all of it on fire in front of the main conference hall. Apparently, that stuff burns pretty hot: we put our fireworks on a large trash can, and we melted a giant hole in it. Go figure.
---
Not much else to report.
Teaching is teaching, work is work, and we have a COS (close of service)
conference coming up in two weeks. Man…
I know that with my extension I’ve got another 7 months of TZ-time left, but I
can’t help but feel that this crap is almost over. Before I know it, I’m gonna be back in
America. Scary.
And since I don't have any relevant pictures for this post, here's a cute picture of one of my dogs. Enjoy. |
I enjoy your vignette style storytelling. We just need comic book illustrations to accompany your adventures.
ReplyDeleteHi Paul,
ReplyDeleteI am writing to you from Germany. We met in October 2011 on the Liemba and had diner together in Kigoma. Have shared your article on my facebood account. Would like to stay in contact with you.
Best regards
Sarah Paulus
Hi Paul,
ReplyDeleteits me - Sarah again. Just wanted to let you know that we are coming to Tanzania again, arriving 12.09. in Dar, then travelling through the country. Any chance to meet somewhere? If you go to my blog www.sarahpaulus.de, you will find my email in the ABOUT section. Please kindly send me a note if you received this comment.
Best regards
Sarah
Good morning how are you?
ReplyDeleteMy name is Emilio, I am a Spanish boy and I live in a town near to Madrid. I am a very interested person in knowing things so different as the culture, the way of life of the inhabitants of our planet, the fauna, the flora, and the landscapes of all the countries of the world etc. in summary, I am a person that enjoys traveling, learning and respecting people's diversity from all over the world.
I would love to travel and meet in person all the aspects above mentioned, but unfortunately as this is very expensive and my purchasing power is quite small, so I devised a way to travel with the imagination in every corner of our planet. A few years ago I started a collection of used stamps because trough them, you can see pictures about fauna, flora, monuments, landscapes etc. from all the countries. As every day is more and more difficult to get stamps, some years ago I started a new collection in order to get traditional letters addressed to me in which my goal was to get at least 1 letter from each country in the world. This modest goal is feasible to reach in the most part of countries, but unfortunately it’s impossible to achieve in other various territories for several reasons, either because they are countries at war, either because they are countries with extreme poverty or because for whatever reason the postal system is not functioning properly.
For all this I would ask you one small favor:
Would you be so kind as to send me a letter by traditional mail from Tanzania? I understand perfectly that you think that your blog is not the appropriate place to ask this, and even, is very probably that you ignore my letter, but I would call your attention to the difficulty involved in getting a letter from that country, and also I don’t know anyone neither where to write in Tanzania in order to increase my collection. a letter for me is like a little souvenir, like if I have had visited that territory with my imagination and at same time, the arrival of the letters from a country is a sign of peace and normality and an original way to promote a country in the world. My postal address is the following one:
Emilio Fernandez Esteban
Avenida Juan de la Cierva, 44
28902 Getafe (Madrid)
Spain
If you wish, you can visit my blog www.cartasenmibuzon.blogspot.com where you can see the pictures of all the letters that I have received from whole World.
Finally I would like to thank the attention given to this letter, and whether you can help me or not, I send my best wishes for peace, health and happiness for you, your family and all your dear beings.
Yours Sincerely
Emilio Fernandez