The Peace Corps Training Chronicles, Part 4: Train Free or Die Hard

Last week of training.  It's hard to believe that I've been here for eight weeks.  It definitely doesn't seem like it's been that long.  This Sunday we'll be traveling back to Dar for a few days to swear in, and next Thursday we'll be heading out to our respective sites (which means that my Thanksgiving Day will be spent on a bus... which kind of sucks).  Interestingly, I was chosen to be the official speech-giver for the swear-in ceremony, which means I have to deliever a 5-10 minute speech in Kiswahili in front of the U.S. Ambassador.  It's a bit intimidating.

In any case, shadow was awesome.  I ended up shadowing a PCV in Tukuyu town in Mbeya region, and the whole week was essentially summer camp in Africa.  I'm an idiot and didn't bring my camera, so unfortunately I don't have any pictures to upload (not that I really can at the moment, anyways).  Regardless, it was a really fun experience, and I can at least endeavor to describe it somewhat in this entry.  So yeah, some highlights from the trip/general notes about my experience:

1) Mbeya is f-ing beautiful.  The whole Tukuyu area consists of lush, verdant highlands, with rolling hills eventually giving way to the Livingstone Mountains and Lake Malawi.  The weather is cool and wet, with temperatures usually hovering  around 70 degrees Farenheit and getting cooler at night.  Essentially, think Scotland, only with more banana trees and chai plantations.  Okay, so maybe don't think of Scotland, but Mbeya is still pretty.  On Thursday, we joined up with another shadow group based in Mbeya town and hiked into Ngozi Crater, which is a massive crater lake with some really breathtaking sights.  In actuality, hanging out at the lake's edge was not nearly as cool as the hike itself: the slope of the crater is steep enough that you can essentially slide on your butt all the way down (a fun if painful method).  Plus, at the bottom we had cookies, which was nice.

2) On Friday, November 12th, 2010, I had a burger.  A real burger, with beef, cheese, and guacamole.  It was INCREDIBLE.  I was in love.  Immediately after eating it, I strongly considered blowing another day's salary on a second one.  Maybe eight weeks of rice and beans has thoroughly messed with my head, but it was the best meal I've had in a while.

3) Apparently, Lady Gaga has just hit Africa.  It's kind of funny to see everyone's reaction to her here: half of Tanzania assumes that she is a devil worshipper, while the other half has succumbed to her unique brand of irresistible pop dance music.  It was even funnier to see what happened in the bar in Mbeya when they started playing her music: there's nothing like seeing 15-20 Tanzanian men (women don't get out much) on the dance floor doing the Electric Slide to "Bad Romance."  And, of course, I was right out there with them... I mean, I have to integrate into the culture, don't I?

4) I've come to the conclusion that, if I die in Africa, it will be in a fiery car crash.  Seriously, taking the bus for Morogoro to Mbeya is a pretty harrowing experience.  The main "highway" between the two cities is a skinny one-lane-each-way road that winds through some fairly narrow mountain passes with no guard rails.  It doesn't help that buses typically go about 80mph and pass each other on blind turns constantly.  I've found that the best method for dealing with the constant fear of death usually to sit in the back of the bus and try to sleep... that way, at least you're outside the killzone, and even if you do die, at least you won't know.

5) Both in Mbeya and here in Morogoro, I am under constant pressure to convert to Christianity, even though I was technically born Christian.  There is no better conversation starter in Tanzania than saying that you don't belong to a religion or that you don't believe in God, since everyone will pretty much pounce on the opportunity to convert you to their faith.  I am by no means saying that all Christians here are bad.  Quite the opposite: my host family is heavily Christian, and they're totally awesome and respect my beliefs.  My host family, however, is also quite social, and, as such, they have a lot of their less-open-minded devout Christian friends over for dinner, etc.  I can't tell you how many times I have been questioned about my faith here in Tanzania, and most of these folks are not subtle---or particularly nice---when I try to explain my beliefs (or lack thereof).  I know it's all well-intentioned, but I swear if I hear another condescending lecture on the evils of beer or how I'm a "mpumbavu" ("fool" or "idiot") for not going to church, I might do something drastic.

Alright, that's enough for now.  Later!